Mumbai


Sushma Reddy welcomes you to the sultry coast of to the city that never sleeps, the city that dares to be more than just a port by the bay.

The only way to know Mumbai is to sweet talk her into revealing herself.

To talk to her over a cup of coffee, to drink to her at the bar and to dance with her into the wee hours of the morning. Come, explore Mumbai - the city of dreams.



















Amchi Mumbai

When Mumbaikar’s talk of Mumbai they think of gracious Colaba in South Mumbai and playful Juhu, the suburb 16 km south of Colaba – the two hubs that define the city’s charm and character. The best way to explore the two is to take a walk around Colaba area and then hop into a taxi for Juhu.

Colaba: Start your journey at the Gateway of India, stroll along Taj Mahal Hotel (built with its back to the sea and then subsequently over the years renovated to include entrance from the sea front) visit the galleries and museums (particularly the Jehangir Art Gallery and the National Gallery of Modern Art). Then from the nearby concrete jungle of Nariman Point head towards Malabar Hill along the Marine Drive, the world’s second seafront (after Miami in United States) studded with 1920s art deco buildings. To the left you’ll find the Haji Mastaan Dargah and at its end, the crowded and jovial Chowpatty Beach. If you’d like to take a guided tour of Colaba check with NGMA which organises walking tours - a mixed bag of art, music, drama, film, poetry, tea and snacks.

Juhu: The always crowded Juhu most often associated with the rich and famous actors, directors and producers who’ve built or acquired seafront bungalows since 1950s, is a beehive that’s best avoided, unless you’d like to savour some of the street food here. The view of the sea from here is best had from the nearby Mumbai’s first 5 star hotel, Sun-n-Sand or the spiffy Holiday Inn, where you are always likely to bump into a star or two.

Links to info:

Jehangir Art Gallery
Opposite Elphinstone College
MG Road
Tel: 022-22048212
Open Mon-Sat, 11 a.m.- 7 p.m.

National Gallery of Modern Art
Opposite Regal Cinema
MG Road
Tel: 022–22881969
Open Mon-Sat, 11 a.m.-6 p.m.

Taj Mahal Hotel
Appolo Bunder
Mumbai – 400 001
Tel: 022-56653366
Website: http://www.tajhotels.com

Sun-n-Sand
39, Juhu Beach, Mumbai - 400 049
Tel:022-56938888/26201011
Website: http://www.sunnsandhotel.com

Holiday Inn
Balraj Sahani Marg
Juhu Beach
Mumbai 400049
Tel: 022-56934444
Website: http://www.holidayinnbombay.com

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For a Few Rupees less

Mumbai is where you can get almost anything for a price. If you are looking for a traditional good luck charm buy a clay figurine of Ganesha (the Elephant God) from any of the potters dotting the city. If something off beat is more your style, call up Zyros Zend and get yourself a fortune cookie! Yes, in Mumbai you can buy anything. His most sought after cookie is the one which costing Rs 101 comes with a ring and the message “Your life is going to change forever in next few seconds”. Many have used it to propose to their partners.

If you like a good read take a walk along the footpaths of the Fort area or Churchgate where you’ll find an array of books to choose from. If it’s the rip offs of branded clothes that you are looking for try Nakhuda Market of Mohammad Ali Road, Linking Road in Bandra and of course, Fashion Street between Marine Lines and Churchgate. By the way, Asia’s largest slum, Dharavi is the place to pick up the best leather buys in the city.

But the most charming and exciting experience for most travelers coming into town is the Thieves Market or the Chor Bazar. Well, it started as a thieves market but is today more or less an antique treasurehouse. Not all of it however, is as authentic as the sellers would like you to believe. Some of the shops accept credit cards but most don’t. From an old Russian Leica camera to ornate doors sourced from Rajasthan to carpets and bric-a-brac, it’s a haven for shopoholics.

Links to info:

Zyros Zend

Fortune Cookie India
300, Cowasji Hormasji Street
Marine Lines
Tel: 022-22035586

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Over a cup of coffee


Chocolate muffins and hot cup of steaming coffee followed by an evening of riveting performance is more than anybody looking for a bite of culture in Mumbai can ask for. All this and more can be had at the famous Prithvi Theatres, started as a traveling theatre by the scion of Kapoor family, Prithvi Raj Kapoor. Revived from near ruin by his granddaughter Sanjana Kapoor, Prithvi is a one place that’ll assure a glimpse of the literary and cultivated Mumbaikar. If film not theatre is more your scene, check the Mocha Film Club, which keeps a date with international cinema every Monday. To confirm what’s playing call a day in advance as the decision is made at the last minute.

Another true blue Amchi Mumbai experience you can’t do without is the Mumbai Derby held at the Mahalakshmi Race Course on the first Sunday of February with all the traditional English trimmings – hats, gloves, cucumber sandwiches and yes, scones. Though the racing season starts in February it’s the Derby that attracts the rich and beautiful. The 5th of February McDowell sponsored Derby this year saw bandana-clad Feroz Khan, actor Arbaz Khan, liquor baron Vijay Mallaya and hot sensation Mallika Sherawat who as this year’s chief guest arrived to the venue in a helicopter!

Links to info:

Prithvi Theatre
Janki Kutir
Juhu Church Road
Mumbai 400049
Tel: 022-2614 9546, 2618 3568
Website: http://www.prithvitheatre.org

For more information on horse racing in India check out the following website: http://www.indiarace.com

Mocha
Near Holy Family Hospital
Hill Road, Bandra
Tel: 022-26433098

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Dancing feet

Want to shake a leg? There is no place like Mumbai where dancing feet lead to films or international stage. Ask Ayesha Dharkar who trained with Tusha Dallas’ School of Classical Ballet and Western Dance. Dallas who trained at the London’s Royal Academy of Dance in the 1960s, started one of oldest schools in the city and counts among its alumni India’s best-known new age dancer Astad Deboo and more lately, the beautiful Perizaad Zorabian. But no one is probably more popular and well-known in India then Shyamak Davar whose Davar Dance Academy took off where ballet and Bollywood matkas and jhatkas left off. Head there for jazz, hip-hop, rock-n-roll, Afro jazz and salsa classes.

If Davar’s academy is too passé for you, try the latest sensation in Amchi Mumbai, Sandip Soparkar’s Ballroom Studio where together with his partner, Kitu Gidwani you can learn to shake your booty in the rumba, samba, cha cha cha, jive and paso doble dance styles. Soparkar, like many other trained dancers is also a choreographer who has earned his stripes with the films, The Rising and Kyo Ho Gaya Na. Incidentally, Sparkar’s studio is the only one in India to receive exclusive rights to send entries to two famous international dance festivals – Dance Grand Prix Italia and the Prague Festival in the Latin American ballroom category. So hey, put on those dancing shoes, who knows a two-month course could mean a whole new career in life!

Links to info:

Dallas’ School of Classical Ballet and Western Dance
41, Casa Garnde
Little Gibbs Road
Malabar Hill
Tel: 022-23676534

Sandip Soparkar’s Balroom Studio
St Andrew’s College
Off Hailey Road
Bandra
Tel: 9819361074

Or

Sandip Soparkar’s Balroom Studio
New Era School
Near Tejpal Auditorium
Gowalia Tank
Kemp’s Corner
Tel: 9819361074

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At the bar

One of the most frequented and popular restro bars in town Olive Bar and Kitchen in the up market Pali Hill is where the successful Mumbaikars and out of town who’s who meet over drinks and Italian delicacies such as quail or roasted Guinee fowl. This is where Mumbai’s leading jazz man Louis Banks can also be found entertaining guests with traditional sounds of jazz and blues. If you are into jazz you could also try the stylish Not Just Jazz by the Bay and the Starters & More that organise gigs with well-known jazz musicians from around the world including India.

Mumbai, the bastion of Bollywood beat can be experienced in its pumping, foot stomping and arm waving best at Enigma discotheque which by all accounts charges the highest cover charge per couple (Rs 1,500). Truly speaking however, Bandra’s basement club Poison (with an emerald staircase!) is where the real action, the real Bollywood glitterati drop in on special days – when it is out of bounds for junta. This where you’ll find Esha Deol, Zayed Khan, Gauri Khan and Priti Zinta et al let their hair down.

The best nightspots, however, are the former mills in the Parl-Worli suburbs that have come alive to the sound of music. Check out Velocity here one of the biggest discos in the country where you can listen to almost any kind of music and even watch a mujra!

Links to info:

Call to confirm what’s playing when.

Olive Bar and Kitchen
Pali Hill Tourist Hotel
14, Union Park
Kher (West)
Tel: 022-26058228

Not Just Jazz by the Bay
Soona Mahal
143 Marine Drive
near the Ambassador Hotel
Tel: 022-22851876

Starters & More
Cambata Building (Eros Theatre)
Churchgate
Near Oval Maidan
Tel: 022-56315871

Enigma
JW Marriot Hotel
Juhu Tara Road
Tel: 022-56933000
(open Wednesdays-Fridays)

Velocity
Film Centre, 2nd Floor,
Near Cross Roads,
Tardeo, Haji Ali
Tel: 022-23514343

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